Mexico

At last we begin. This is a trip long delayed and much interrupted but finally our adventure starts.  Ushuaia, here we come!

After much work on the truck and camper; much sorting and organizing; much shopping and storing, we left Kamloops Nov. 23, 2018.  We had a one-night stop in Peachland to visit Doug’s sister Lil and Wayne.  From there it was a short drive to the US border.  We dashed through the cold and rainy USA with a stop in Bend, Oregon for tires and shocks.  Then another stop, in Maricopa, AZ for a short visit with sister Jeanette and Al.  Here we picked up some pre-ordered tools as well as the Christmas present waiting for us from Brittany and Etienne.

We crossed into Mexico at Nogales on Dec. 4.  Having spent several months in the northern half of Mexico last year, we did not wish to revisit this area.  We made stops in San Carlos so Deb could get her hair cut, then to Mazatlán for a short visit with Doug’s cousin Joanne and Darwin.  After Mazatlán, our route was inland, north of Mexico City. Our goal was to get south as quickly as possible.

Cholula

Our first experience was in Cholula under the watchful eye of the active volcano Mount Popocatepetl (pop-a-lot to us).  We discovered the world’s largest pyramid spanning 450 x 450 meters. Its volume outclasses anything in Egypt.  Most of the base is covered in soil so it resembles a hill with a church on the top.

The Spanish built a church on the top of every temple they found to assert the dominance of Catholicism.  Excavations began in 1931, so you can see some portions of the pyramid and explore some of the 8 km. of tunnels.

We also watched the Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flyers)

and mugged with traditional dancers in Cholula.

We spent the next several days commuting to the city of Pueblo.  I’m sure that you have heard of Cinqo de Mayo (May 5).  This commemorates the victory of the Mexicans over the French in 1862 in Pueblo.  This is not Mexico’s “independence day”, but remains important nonetheless.  We visited Casa de Serdan to learn more revolutionary history, then the Museo Amparo which houses amazing archeological artifacts and the Palafoxiana Library (oldest one in the Americas – 1646).

You can see why we stayed several days.  We saw their ubiquitous Cathedral and strolled down Candy Street (not even tempted).

Oaxaca

The next 3 weeks were spent in Oaxaca. We camped in Lachigolo, at an RV park ran by two expats, Del and Kate.  We met a lot of people from various countries, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Germany, France, Hungary, Australia, Britain and even Mexico. We enjoyed all the camaraderie and stories and it emphasized the things we had in common. This is what travelling is all about!  It was easy to commute into the city and the surrounding area with local buses and collectivo sedans.

We started with an Artisanal  Chocolate Festival (and free tasting!).  I’m not too enthralled with their chocolate – too gritty and too much cinnamon for my taste.  We then went to the Sunday market in Tlacolula which is put on by all the 16 indigenous groups of the area.

 And finally, my favourite, La Noche de Rábanos (Radish Night Festival).

This is a 121 year tradition of carving giant radishes into huge dioramas.  They also submitted corn-husk figures and dried flower creations.

By now, Christmas was upon us, so we spent time strolling around the main square.  It was charming to watch little ones lining up to visit the Three Magi to divulge their wishes. The lights and decorations were lovely, the constant fireworks and firecrackers were not.  Thanks to Del and Kate, we were invited to Christmas dinner at the English Library with 100 expats and tourists. A very enjoyable time was had to be sure.

Monte Alban

Then back to touristing.  The incredible Monte Alban was our first stop. This was the Zapotec ceremonial and civic center.  It functioned from 500 BC to 500AD and was the largest Mesoamerican city of the time.

Huge pyramids and plazas were built on a levelled mountain top at 1940 meters (6400 ft.).  The next day, we visited Museao de Cultura to see the artifacts removed from Monte Alban and learn about the ethnic groups ruled by the Zapotecs.

Mitla

Mitla was the second most important archeological site.  This was the Zapotec religious center and is famous for its mosaic fretwork.  These geometric designs were done without mortar. No other Mexican site has this feature.  Their culture had two calendars and a writing system as well as this delightful architecture. They believed that after death the nobles became Cloud People who could watch over those below.

Hierve el Agua

The final site we saw was Hierve el Agua (Stone Waterfall).

There are 2 calcified rock formations formed by concentrated mineral waters seeping out of the rocks above.  One formation is 12 meters high; the other is 30 meters.  The only other site like this is in Pamukkale, Turkey, which we visited over 30 years ago.

Xoloitzcuintla

After three weeks with Kate and Del, we said goodbye to them and their very special dogs.

These dogs are an ancient breed of Aztec hunting dogs called Xoloitzcuintle. They were brought back from near extinction in the 1950s. They are hairless, nearly toothless and were revered. I proofread Del’s book that he has written about these dogs. He wants to publish it for children.

Pacific Coast

We now headed south, down the Mezcal Highway. Actually, it was a lot of up AND down as we twisted our way around and over several mountain ranges. The following day we arrived at the Pacific. We camped under coconut palms and cashew trees!  Our next stop was at Mision Surf, further down the coast, where an Australian couple run a small hotel right on the beach.

They run it as a non-profit supporting Mision Mexico, a children’s refuge located in Tapachula where abused and orphaned children have been cared for by a team of very dedicated people since 2001.  Mision Surf also started providing free swim and surfing lessons to poor children in the local community, who are not part of the refuge.

This was our final Mexican stop.  We are off to Guatemala next

Our Route